Il Pleut des Cords
Last Week's clue: A Dog, A Cat & some Rope
Expression: Il pleut des cordes Literal meaning: It’s raining ropes
English equivalent: It’s raining cats and dogs/ it’s pouring
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Dark rain clouds loom over the Dentelles de Montmirail
Generally speaking, the cats, dogs and ropes fall very infrequently, and in short bursts during “the season” in Provence. When they do during that time, the short but heavy showers are accompanied by spectacular thunder, lightning and followed by even more spectacular rainbows. But ….. yes, the heavens do open up from time to time, which sends café owners scurrying to fold up or stack their outdoor chairs and tables, and collapse umbrellas before they become airborne.
……. As the TGV made its way from Paris to Avignon that special April morning, I was surprised to find that the light showers I had left in Paris much earlier, were not giving way to le soleil which Provence is so well known for. In fact, the showers were growing in intensity, with heavy, dark grey clouds. The Provencaux would not be happy with this. Remembering …. a couple of years earlier, a café owner in Isle sur la Sorgue apologizing profusely that it had rained for two days without stopping… and in March! Setting our coffee down on the table he said, “…. But it’s always dry here in Provence.” “mais, il est toujours très, très, très sec là!”
The train whooshed through the countrywide and towards Avignon. As we got closer, the heavens really opened up and I thought, “this is going to be interesting, I’m by myself (for the first week here), two large suitcases, and a (no doubt, wet and slippery) ramp, down to the parking lot, on the other side of which is the Hertz office where my rental car awaits.” It was “interesting”. I’d not counted on the rain. Predictably, the ramp was wet, showing the slightly muddy trails of many, many suitcases that had accompanied their owners that morning. Balancing purse, umbrella and suitcases - all working in a very tenuous choreography - where is that extra hand when you need it? Right ….. time to face the elements. The weight of the suitcases made them badly want to overtake me, as I struggled to steady myself and not find myself chasing after them, perhaps winding up sliding (on my derriere), all the way down the long ramp. One of those moments that brings to mind a cartoon character, in some form of out of control forward movement, an arm outstretched, and a panicked look on their face!
Next came the umbrella juggling scene. Trying to secure the umbrella, in a style fashioned after holding a phone between your shoulder and ear, making sure that your head and most of your body is under it …… and it wasn’t turning inside out …… all whilst running across the parking lot, to rent what was I’m sure, the smallest car in the world! Wrestling those two large cases into that car must have been quite a comical sight and did away with any last hope of staying dry – OK – I give up. I had thought, “Why would I need a larger car – it’s just me for the first week?” Now I knew. Important to coordinate size of suitcases and size of car, I think. Especially in the rain.
But, this was not a day to worry about the rain – the suitcases were crammed in – one in the back seat and one beside me in the passenger seat. it was after 10.00am already. Time to call our Realtor in Beaumes de Venise and tell him I was on my way to his office ….. a little wet but ……. never mind. A house we had seen from the outside the year before (although I must admit that we did have a little peek around), was “À Vendre”. Our Realtor, had an exclusive listing on it. What luck! ……but he would not let us make an offer without inspecting the inside first! By coincidence, we’d already planned a trip in mid-April, so we advanced my departure by a week, and here I was!
The drive was fantastic – sometimes on tiny two lane roads through beautiful countryside and vineyards and “il pleuvait des cords” (beaucoup des cordes). The drainage canals on either side of some of the roads were full and looked like fast flowing streams.
Monsieur l’immobilier was waiting when I arrived at his office – we had an appointment with Monsieur and Madame – the vendors, at the house after lunch. Enough time to drive to Orange where I had a hotel reservation, check in and perhaps even shed some wet clothes. It rained heavily all the way was still teeming when I arrived in Orange and started looking for a signs to the Hotel. Surprise! It was Market day in Orange…… yes …. markets in Provence go on - rain, shine or mistral – they really do. Diehard market goers and stall holders were covered up with raincoats and huddled under umbrellas and heavy plastic awnings, many wheeling plastic covered market baskets, all going about their business as usual.
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The Markets go on ..... Rain..... Shine ...... or Mistral .....
The proprietors of the hotel were a young couple who had just bought and recently finished remodeling it. They were very welcoming, but very concerned about the rain, “…..it shouldn’t be raining in April, the season has already started!”
At the appointed time, I arrived at the appointed place – in front of the Mairie in Sablet. As we walked up to the house, it was easy to see that Monsieur and Madame, les proprietaires, had given great care to the courtyard garden. Spring was here and bright blue pansies cascaded out of pots by the quite distinctive front door. Madame greeted us and immediately apologized for the weather saying, “c’est triste” (it’s sad). She motioned to the sky, saying “why now?” I’m sure she was worried that it would affect our wish to purchase their house. Little did she know…… we would have bought it having seen only a little part of it the year before.
After all the waiting and wondering, I was finally here – rain notwithstanding. Looking out from the house over the rooftops of Sablet, the vineyards and hills on that rainy day, I had to pinch myself - was this really happening, at last? I phoned my husband, who was anxiously waiting for a report. He picked up the call with, “How is it?”
My answer, “Better than we thought – especially in the rain.”
Posted by Marianne at 6/27/2009 6:04 PM 
Categories: Vacations, Provence, Avignon, France, Sablet, il pleut
Tags: dogs and ropes fall very infrequently and collapse umbrellas before they become airborne which sends café owners scurrying to fold up or stack their outdoor chairs and tables and in short bursts during “the season” in Provence. When they do during that time the short but heavy showers are accompanied by spectacular thunder lightning and followed by even more spectacular rainbows. But ….. yes the heavens do open up from time to time cats
Categories: Vacations, Provence, Avignon, France, Sablet, il pleut
Tags: dogs and ropes fall very infrequently and collapse umbrellas before they become airborne which sends café owners scurrying to fold up or stack their outdoor chairs and tables and in short bursts during “the season” in Provence. When they do during that time the short but heavy showers are accompanied by spectacular thunder lightning and followed by even more spectacular rainbows. But ….. yes the heavens do open up from time to time cats
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