Christmas Traditions in Provence - It's almost here .... Treize Desserts time.....
Probably the best known of the Christmas traditions in Provence is the Treize desserts or Thirteen Desserts that finish the Christmas Eve meal.
In her book A Framhouse in Provence, American author Mary Roblee Henry* describes having a Christmas meal with their good friends in Vaison-la-Romaine back in the 1960's. The family, who were quite prominent in the area were also quite formal in their daily lives but particularly when it came to special meals. As they came to the end of their meal and it was near dessert time, the children broke out in a chant, "trieze! trieze!" unitil dessert was served!
That gives us some idea of how well loved this custom is.
As time has gone on, there have probably been some "updates" such as the Patisserie in the area that makes a " Gateau desTreize Desserts" - incorporating all the elements of desert into one cake.
My neighbor in Sablet recommended it as really delicious .... must be sure to try it when we are next in Provence for Christmas.
Below is a picture of the thirteen desserts as it was displayed in Seguret as a part of the Exposition des Santons, and a picture of the description of the "Gros Super", or Big Supper that precedes the thirteen desserts.


Below - les Treize Desserts version 2010
dutifully guarded by "Cinnamon" our longtime Christmas Elf and Santa's watchdog (who at one time, when our boys were little, found himself blindfolded by a would be naughty litte boy)

The thirteen deserts symbolize Christ and the twelve apostles. Although the items can vary, they most commonly include:
Raisins for the Dominicans
Almonds for the Carmelites
Dried Figs for the Franciscans
Hazelnuts for the Augustines
Four Poors
Apples
Pears
Mandarines
Dates
Four Riches (any combination of these)
Confit Fruit
Nougat Blanc
Nougat Noir
Conig – Quince paste
Panade – Apple Tart
Calisson – Marzipan candy, specialty of the
RECIPE: Panade – Apple Tart with almond frangipane
1 Recipe Galette Dough
1 cup Flour
1 teasp. Sugar
¼ teasp. Salt
6 tabsp. Butter – chilled and cut into 1 inch cubes
3 – 4 tabsp iced water
Combine flour, sugar and salt. Add butter and cut into flour mixture. Add 3 tabsps. Water and continue mixing until dough comes together. If dough is dry, add another tabsp. of water. Gather dough together and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 30 mins. the dough can also be froze at this point.
1 Recipe Frangipane
3 ounces Almond Paste
3 tabsp. salted butter – at room temp.
1½ teasp. Sugar
1½ tabsp. Flour
1 Egg
1/3 cup Cream
In a stand mixer, combine almond paste, butter, sugar and flour. ‘beat on medium speed until smooth. Add egg and cream - beat on low until incorporated. Use at room temp Frangipane can be stored in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.
To assemble Panade:
1 Recipe Frangipane
1 Recipe Galette dough
4 Apples – Sierra Beauty or Golden Delicious – peeled and thinly sliced.
¼ cup melted butter
1/3 cup sugar
Roll galette dough into a large round 1/8 inch thick. . Place dough in a parchment lined tart shell. Spread with a thin layer of Frangipane. You can save the remaining Frangipane in the refrigerator for use in other desserts. Place sliced apples over top of frangipane in concentric circles. Pull edges of dough into the center to create a ½ inch crust around the edges. Brush the edges with butter. Sprinkle with sugar and bake in a 400 deg oven for approx. 40 -45 mins.


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